Hexalong, Point-to-Point Hand Sewing, Lesson #2, Marking and Cutting Your Fabric

July 18, 2011 § 9 Comments

So, do you have your templates?  Great, let’s get going.

In addition to your fabric and templates, all you will need for today’s lesson is a mechanical pencil and a straight edge ruler.  I like to use a “Magic Wand” which makes marking 1/4″ seam allowances a breeze, but you can use any quilter’s straight edge that has a long straight line 1/4 inch from the edge.

Select your fabric and iron the first template, shiny side down, to the back of your fabric, marking and aligning any fussy cuts  you’d like to match.  In my example, I will be centering the letter “B” inside a medium sized hexagon and won’t be marking anything for fussy matching.

Fabric with freezer paper template ironed in place.

“Magic Wand” lined up with first edge.

Now, using your mechanical pencil, mark your sewing line, at the very edge of the freezer paper template.  Also, mark a cutting line, 1/4″ away from the edge of the freezer paper.  Here’s a picture of the first two lines marked on the back of my “B”.

First sewing and cutting lines marked.

Your sewing line is right next to the freezer paper template, your cutting line is the one 1/4″ away to the outside.

Continue on around, marking the sewing and cutting lines all around your template.  When you’re done, it will look like this:

Cutting and sewing lines, marked.

Peel back the freezer paper (save it!  you can use it over and over again) and here’s the fabric with cutting and sewing lines marked:

Cutting and sewing lines marked, freezer paper removed.

Cut your fabric out along the cutting line (the line farthest away from the “B”), and there you have it – your first piece of fabric marked for point-to-point hand sewing.

Here, I’ve flipped the fabric over so you can see my “B” as it will appear in the quilt.

So, that’s it.  If you’ll be hand sewing point-to-point along with me, you’ll need to follow the same procedure to mark and cut all the pieces of your block.

My “B” block parts look like this:

Join me next time for a quick little lesson in point-to-point hand sewing.

And, as usual, if anything is not clear, please ask and I’ll do my best to help figure it out.


§ 9 Responses to Hexalong, Point-to-Point Hand Sewing, Lesson #2, Marking and Cutting Your Fabric

  • Sheila says:

    I can see where this is going Gayle – do you never sew “over papers” ….I haven’t heard of this point to point method before.

    • Hi, Sheila. I’ve sewn over papers a few times, but learned this technique of hand sewing point-to-point for the big Camelot circles. I would love to try both techniques for one or two blocks to compare the advantages/disadvantages. How geeky is that?

  • Hi, Sheila, I use a white gel pen or chalk pencil on dark fabrics. I’ve never tried pencil, but don’t think it would work. Hope you like the point to point sewing!

  • marianne sharp says:

    Why is freezer paper used? Does it stick or something – you just lay it on and iron it so why won’t normal paper work?

    • Hi, Marianne. I like using freezer paper for the accuracy it gives me in marking pattern pieces. You certainly can use regular paper or template plastic, but for me, freezer paper has worked out best. Thanks!

  • Leanne says:

    Hi Gayle, Thanks for a great tutorial. I am wondering if you use freezer paper for all your hand piecing pieces even ones with curves.
    I have just bought the pattern for Camelot.

    • Hi Leanne. Congratulations on starting Camelot. It is such a gorgeous quilt … challenging and fun! I do use freezer paper for all my templates. It really helps me maintain accurate sizes for the pattern pieces. I leave the paper on just until I am ready to sew. When I get ready to seam the two pieces together, the paper comes off. (I think that must be why you are asking about curves?). Another benefit of freezer paper templates is the reusability. I keep them in zip top bags and file them away in case I want to make another of the same block – then I am all set! Have fun with Camelot!

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